Listen to This Guide
Hear Lee and Clara break down the true costs of Mustang electrical repairs in Los Angeles, from why labor dominates the budget to the hidden costs that can double your estimate.
What You're Actually Paying For: Understanding Mustang Electrical Work
Welcome to classic Mustang electrical repair — where a $40 part can require $800 in labor because it's buried behind a dashboard that Ford assembled using spite and tiny screws. In Los Angeles, where shop rates run $100–$165/hour and good electrical specialists are harder to find than street parking, understanding these costs before you commit is the difference between a fixable problem and financial regret.
This guide breaks down actual electrical repair costs for 1964½–1973 Mustangs in the LA market. We're covering everything from simple alternator swaps to full rewiring jobs, with real labor hours, parts pricing, and the lessons I learned when my "simple fix" turned into a three-week electrical archaeology expedition.
Here's the brutal truth about classic car electrical repair: labor costs 2–3x more than parts, and that ratio gets worse in Los Angeles where qualified techs charge what they're worth.
Your 50-year-old Mustang uses separate wire harnesses for different systems — dash, engine bay, headlights, taillights. Each harness can fail independently, which means diagnosing electrical problems often involves testing multiple systems until you find the one that's actively trying to burn your car down.
National vs. LA Cost Reality
| Repair Type | National Average | Los Angeles Range | Why LA Costs More |
|---|---|---|---|
| Alternator Replacement | $400–$800 | $500–$1,000 | Higher labor rates, 3G upgrade common |
| Starter Replacement | $300–$600 | $400–$750 | Access issues add time in cramped LA bays |
| Wiring Harness (Partial) | $800–$1,500 | $1,000–$2,100 | Specialty labor at $120–$165/hr |
| Full Rewire | $2,500–$4,000 | $3,000–$5,500 | Premium shops, modern upgrades expected |
| Ignition Switch | $150–$350 | $200–$450 | Dashboard access labor |
Prices reflect 2025 LA market conditions with $100–$165/hr labor rates. Your specific costs depend on condition, shop specialization, and how creative the previous owner got with electrical tape.
The Major Electrical Systems (And What They Cost to Fix)
Charging System: Alternator, Voltage Regulator, Wiring
Your Mustang's charging system keeps the battery alive and powers everything electrical. When it fails, you're driving a very heavy bicycle with lights that don't work.
Common Issues:
- Flickering dash lights (bad voltage regulator or loose connections)
- Dead battery after sitting overnight (alternator not charging)
- Dimming headlights at idle (weak alternator output)
- Battery light stays on (failed diode or regulator)
Original vs. Upgraded Systems:
Stock 1965–1970 Mustangs came with small generators (35–65 amps), which is adorable but insufficient if you want to run modern accessories like, say, headlights and a radio simultaneously. Most owners upgrade to a 3G alternator (130–200 amps) during repair.
| Component | Parts Cost | Labor Hours | Total Cost (LA) | What You Get |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1G Alternator (Stock) | $80–$150 | 1–2 hrs | $180–$480 | Period-correct replacement, same output |
| 3G Alternator Upgrade | $150–$340 | 2–3 hrs | $350–$900 | Modern 130–200A output, supports EFI/accessories |
| 3G Conversion Kit | $80–$120 | Included above | — | Wiring harness adapter for warning light |
| Voltage Regulator | $30–$80 | 0.5–1 hr | $80–$245 | External regulator (1G) or internal (3G) |
| Alternator Wiring Harness | $50–$80 | 1–2 hrs | $150–$410 | New plug, wires to battery/regulator |
Dorian's Take
I upgraded to a 3G alternator not because I needed 200 amps, but because the original generator had the charging capacity of a hamster wheel. The conversion cost me $650 total (parts + labor at a Burbank shop), and now I can run my headlights without the dash lights dimming like a horror movie. Worth it.
The 3G swap is straightforward — bolts into original brackets — but you need the adapter harness ($80) to keep your stock warning light functional. Without it, you're guessing whether your charging system works, which is a fun game until you're stranded in Glendale.
Starting System: Starter Motor, Solenoid, Cables
The starting system is what turns your engine over. When it fails, you hear clicks, grinding, or the soul-crushing sound of nothing happening.
Common Issues:
- Clicking but not cranking (weak starter or bad solenoid)
- Grinding noise (damaged starter gear/flywheel)
- Slow cranking (bad battery cables or ground straps)
- No crank at all (ignition switch, neutral safety switch, or starter failure)
| Component | Parts Cost | Labor Hours | Total Cost (LA) | What You Get |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Starter Motor | $80–$250 | 1–3 hrs | $180–$745 | Rebuilt or new; access varies by engine |
| Starter Solenoid | $20–$50 | 0.5–1 hr | $70–$215 | Mounted on starter or firewall |
| Battery Cables (Set) | $40–$100 | 0.5–1 hr | $90–$265 | Positive + negative with correct terminals |
| Ground Strap Kit | $40–$60 | 0.5–2 hrs | $90–$390 | Engine-to-chassis and body-to-battery |
| Ignition Switch | $30–$80 | 1–2 hrs | $130–$410 | Behind steering column; requires dash access |
| Neutral Safety Switch | $25–$60 | 1–2 hrs | $125–$390 | Automatic trans only; under car |
Labor Reality:
Starter replacement should be simple. Should. On a small-block 289/302, you can swap it in 1–2 hours. On a big-block with headers, plan on 3+ hours of cursing and skinned knuckles. LA shops charge $120–$165/hr for this privilege.
Dorian's Take
My starter died in a Ralph's parking lot in Studio City. The tow cost me $150, and the shop charged $380 for a rebuilt starter + 2 hours labor. The kicker? They found my ground strap had rusted through, which was why the starter was working so hard it burned out. Add another $150 for grounds.
This is restoration law: one electrical problem reveals three others. Budget accordingly.
Wiring Harnesses: The Heart of Everything Electrical
Classic Mustangs use multiple separate harnesses:
- Under-dash harness: feeds gauges, switches, fuse box, ignition
- Engine bay harness: connects to sensors, starter, alternator, coil
- Headlight harness: runs across radiator support to lights
- Taillight harness: rear lights, fuel sender, backup lights
Each can fail independently. Most fail together, because entropy is efficient.
Partial Harness Replacement
Dash Harness Only:
| Cost Component | Amount | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Under-Dash Harness (Parts) | $600–$800 | Scott Drake, AAW, Painless; includes fuse panel |
| Labor (Dash Access + Install) | 4–8 hrs | Removing dash panel adds 1–2 hrs |
| LA Labor Cost | $400–$1,320 | At $100–$165/hr |
| Total (Dash Only) | $1,000–$2,120 | Most common partial repair |
Engine Bay Harness:
| Cost Component | Amount | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Engine Harness (Parts) | $250–$400 | V8 specific; routes through firewall |
| Labor | 2–3 hrs | Easier access than dash |
| LA Labor Cost | $200–$495 | Less complex than dash work |
| Total (Engine Bay) | $450–$895 | Often bundled with dash work |
Headlight + Taillight Harnesses:
| Cost Component | Amount | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Front + Rear Harnesses (Parts) | $160–$420 | Both harnesses combined |
| Labor | 1–2 hrs | Simpler routing, fewer connections |
| LA Labor Cost | $100–$330 | Quick job for experienced tech |
| Total (Lights) | $260–$750 | Usually done with other work |
Full Rewire (Complete Chassis Harness Kit)
This is the nuclear option. You're replacing every wire in the car.
| Cost Component | Amount | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Complete Harness Kit (Parts) | $900–$1,600 | AAW Classic Update, Painless 22-circuit |
| Labor (Full Install) | 12–20 hrs | Includes dash removal, routing, testing |
| LA Labor Cost | $1,200–$3,300 | At $100–$165/hr; premium shops higher |
| Alternator Upgrade (Optional) | $200–$400 | Usually done during full rewire |
| Custom Work (LED, EFI, etc) | $200–$800 | Relays, extra circuits, modern accessories |
| Total (Full Rewire) | $2,500–$6,100 | Wide range based on complexity |
What Affects Full Rewire Cost:
- Condition: Rusted firewall grommets, seized screws, corroded connectors all add hours
- Accessories: Air conditioning, aftermarket gauges, EFI, stereo systems require custom wiring
- Shop Experience: A tech who's done 50 Mustang rewires works faster than one learning on yours
- Modern Upgrades: LED lights, relays, upgraded fuse panels add parts and labor
- Your Patience: Shops often quote 12–16 hrs but discover issues mid-job (budget 20% extra time)
Dorian's Take
I didn't do a full rewire because my car was "mostly good" (a lie). I did a dash harness ($1,400), then six months later an engine harness ($750), then a year later lights ($400). If I'd done it all at once, I'd have saved $600 in duplicate labor.
The cheapest way to rewire a Mustang is to do it once, properly, with a complete kit. Half-measures cost more than doing it right the first time. This is restoration law, written in melted insulation and regret.
Switches, Relays, and Small Components
These are the "while we're in there" items that shops find when doing other work.
| Component | Parts | Labor | Total (LA) | Common Issues |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Headlight Switch | $25–$60 | 0.5–1 hr | $75–$225 | Contacts burn out; dash removal required |
| Turn Signal Switch | $40–$100 | 1–2 hrs | $140–$430 | Column disassembly; self-canceling fails |
| Wiper Switch | $20–$50 | 0.5–1 hr | $70–$215 | Simple dash-mounted switch |
| Dimmer Switch | $15–$35 | 0.5–1 hr | $65–$200 | Floor-mounted; corrodes from moisture |
| Hazard Flasher | $10–$25 | 0.25 hr | $35–$66 | Plug-in unit under dash |
| Horn Relay | $15–$30 | 0.25 hr | $40–$72 | Simple swap if accessible |
| Fuel Sending Unit | $60–$150 | 1–2 hrs | $160–$480 | Tank drop required; gauge reads wrong |
Dorian's Take
My headlight switch failed two months after I bought the car. The part was $35. Replacing it required removing the dash bezel, which involved removing the steering column cover, which revealed that a previous owner had "fixed" the turn signal switch with a paper clip.
Total cost for what should've been a $150 job: $620, because we discovered three other electrical crimes while the dash was apart. Always budget for crimes.
Complete Repair Scenarios: What Real Jobs Cost in LA
Scenario A: Alternator Upgrade (Most Common)
The Problem: Dim headlights, dead battery after overnight, flickering dash lights
The Fix:
- 3G alternator (130A)
- Conversion harness
- Voltage check and belt
- Ground strap inspection
| Item | Cost |
|---|---|
| Parts (alt + harness + belt) | $230–$420 |
| Labor (2–3 hrs at $120–$165/hr) | $240–$495 |
| Total | $470–$915 |
Timeline: 1 day (drop-off morning, pick up evening)
Scenario B: Dash Harness Replacement
The Problem: Gauges work intermittently, fuses blow randomly, melted wiring smell
The Fix:
- Under-dash harness kit
- Modern fuse panel
- Dash removal and reinstall
- Ground cleaning
| Item | Cost |
|---|---|
| Parts (harness + fuse panel) | $650–$900 |
| Labor (6–8 hrs at $120–$165/hr) | $720–$1,320 |
| Total | $1,370–$2,220 |
Timeline: 2–3 days (more if dash is stuck or damaged)
Scenario C: Starter + Electrical Diagnostic
The Problem: Click-click-nothing when key turns; intermittent starting
The Fix:
- Starter replacement
- Solenoid
- Battery cables
- Ground straps
- Ignition switch test
- Diagnostic time
| Item | Cost |
|---|---|
| Parts (starter, cables, grounds) | $180–$400 |
| Labor (3–5 hrs diagnostic + install) | $360–$825 |
| Total | $540–$1,225 |
Timeline: 1–2 days (faster if starter is easy access)
Dorian's Take
This was my Ralph's parking lot adventure. The shop diagnosed a bad starter, weak grounds, and a corroded battery terminal. They could've just swapped the starter for $350, but instead spent an extra hour on grounds and cables. Cost me $540 total, but the car now starts instantly every time.
Good shops fix the system, not just the symptom. This is worth paying for.
Scenario D: Full Rewire + Modernization
The Problem: Multiple electrical issues, brittle wiring, fire risk, modern accessories planned
The Fix:
- Complete chassis harness kit
- 3G alternator upgrade
- LED lighting conversion
- Modern relay panel
- EFI fuel pump wiring
- Upgraded grounds
| Item | Cost |
|---|---|
| Parts (harness, alt, relays, LED) | $1,400–$2,200 |
| Labor (16–24 hrs at $120–$165/hr) | $1,920–$3,960 |
| Contingency (rust, seized parts, etc) | $300–$600 |
| Total | $3,620–$6,760 |
Timeline: 2–4 weeks (parts ordering + shop availability + work time)
Dorian's Take
This is the "I'm keeping this car forever" option. A full rewire removes 50 years of electrical uncertainty. You'll know every wire, every connection, every ground. In LA, expect to pay $4,000–$6,000 for this peace of mind at a quality shop.
One owner I know did this at a Van Nuys specialist for $5,200 (complete AAW kit + 3G alt + LED lights + 20 hrs labor). His Mustang now starts like a modern car and hasn't had an electrical issue in three years. That's $1,733/year for perfect reliability. Cheaper than therapy.
Factors That Affect Your Electrical Repair Cost
1. Wiring Condition
Surface corrosion on connectors? Add 1–2 hours for cleaning.
Rodent damage? Each chewed section adds 30–60 minutes of splice-and-solder work.
Melted insulation from previous shorts? Often requires harness replacement, not repair.
2. Previous Owner "Fixes"
- Electrical tape over exposed wires hides problems, doesn't fix them.
- Twisted-together splices without solder fail under load.
- Wrong-gauge wire causes voltage drop and overheating.
- Non-standard fuses (pennies, foil) are fire hazards shops must replace immediately.
Dorian's Take
3. Access Difficulty
- Dash removal: +1–2 hours ($120–$330)
- Seat removal for under-body access: +0.5–1 hour ($60–$165)
- Removing aftermarket alarms/stereos with unknown wiring: +1–3 hours ($120–$495)
- Rust or seized firewall grommets: +0.5–2 hours ($60–$330)
4. Modern Accessories
Each modern accessory needs proper wiring:
- EFI fuel pump: Relay + fused power feed (+$100–$200 parts, +1–2 hrs labor)
- Electric cooling fan: Relay + temperature switch (+$80–$150 parts, +1 hr labor)
- Aftermarket stereo/amp: Proper power feeds, noise filters (+$50–$200 parts, +1–2 hrs)
- LED lighting: May need load resistors or relays (+$40–$100 parts, +0.5–1 hr)
- Alarm system: Full integration or removal if previous owner's wiring is bad (+2–5 hrs)
5. Shop Specialization
- General repair shop: $90–$120/hr, may lack classic car experience (longer diagnostic time)
- Classic car specialist: $120–$150/hr, faster diagnosis, better parts knowledge
- Mustang-specific shop: $130–$165/hr, knows common issues, has correct harnesses in stock
- Mobile mechanics: $80–$110/hr, limited diagnostic tools, works at your location
Dorian's Take
Specialists cost more per hour but work faster. The total bill is often lower.
LA-Specific Cost Modifiers
Labor Rates by Area
| LA Region | Typical Labor Rate | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Downtown/Central LA | $130–$165/hr | Premium shops, high overhead |
| Burbank/Glendale | $120–$150/hr | Good classic car specialists |
| Van Nuys/Valley | $110–$140/hr | Mix of general and specialty shops |
| South Bay (Torrance, etc) | $115–$145/hr | Strong classic car community |
| East LA/SGV | $100–$130/hr | More affordable, variable quality |
| Orange County | $120–$150/hr | Well-equipped shops, longer drive |
Rates reflect 2025 market for classic car electrical work. General repair shops may charge less but take longer.
Parts Availability
- Fast Shipping (3–5 days): CJ Pony Parts, NPD, Stang-Aholics (free shipping over $199)
- Local Pickup (same day): Some LA shops stock common harnesses (AAW, Painless)
- Specialty Orders (1–2 weeks): Custom harnesses, 6V conversions, rare options
Dorian's Take
Shop Availability
Classic car electrical specialists book 1–3 weeks out during spring/summer (cruise season).
General shops have faster availability but may not stock Mustang parts.
Mobile techs can come to you faster but lack shop tools for complex diagnosis.
Timeline Expectations:
- Simple job (alternator, switch): Same week, 1–2 days work
- Harness replacement: 1–2 weeks for parts + 2–4 days work
- Full rewire: 2–4 weeks total (parts + scheduling + 3–5 day job)
Common Electrical Mistakes (That Cost Me Money)
1. "I'll Just Replace the Bad Wire"
The Mistake: Splicing in one new wire section while leaving 50-year-old brittle insulation everywhere else.
Why It Fails: Old insulation cracks within weeks. You fix one wire, another fails next month.
The Cost: Repeated shop visits ($120–$165/hr diagnostic each time) instead of one harness replacement.
Dorian's Lesson
2. "The Fuse Keeps Blowing, So I'll Use a Bigger Fuse"
The Mistake: Fuse protects the wire, not the component. Bigger fuse = wire overheats = fire.
Why It Fails: The circuit is shorting. The fuse is doing its job. Defeating it burns your car.
The Cost: Melted wiring requires harness replacement ($1,000–$2,000+) instead of finding the short ($120–$240 diagnostic).
Dorian's Lesson
3. "Electrical Tape Fixes Everything"
The Mistake: Taping over exposed wires or loose connections instead of soldering and heat-shrinking.
Why It Fails: Tape degrades, adhesive fails, moisture gets in. Temporary becomes permanent failure.
The Cost: "Fixed" connections fail randomly, requiring diagnostic time to find intermittent issues ($200–$500).
Dorian's Lesson
4. "I Don't Need to Upgrade the Alternator"
The Mistake: Keeping a 35–55A generator on a car with modern accessories (stereo, electric fan, LED lights).
Why It Fails: Insufficient charging capacity drains battery, dims lights, causes voltage fluctuations that damage electronics.
The Cost: Repeatedly replacing batteries ($120–$200 each) and diagnosing "electrical issues" that are just low voltage.
Dorian's Lesson
5. "Grounds Don't Matter"
The Mistake: Ignoring corroded or missing ground straps because they're "just a wire to the frame."
Why It Fails: Bad grounds cause voltage to find alternate paths (through throttle cables, shift linkages, gauge clusters), creating chaos.
The Cost: Mysterious electrical issues (gauges jumping, hard starting, dim lights) require hours of diagnosis when the fix is a $50 ground kit.
Dorian's Lesson
6. "I'll Save Money with a Cheap Harness Kit"
The Mistake: Buying an $400 universal harness instead of a $900 model-specific kit to save money.
Why It Fails: Universal kits require custom fitting, unlabeled wires, and don't include correct connectors. Installation takes 2–3x longer.
The Cost: Cheap kit ($400) + extra labor (8 extra hours at $120–$165/hr = $960–$1,320) = $1,360–$1,720 total vs. $900 + standard labor.
Dorian's Lesson
7. "The Shop Said It's Fine"
The Mistake: Trusting a general repair shop's "it's fine" on 50-year-old wiring without seeing it yourself.
Why It Fails: General mechanics don't understand classic car electrical systems. "Fine" means "not currently on fire."
The Cost: Electrical failure weeks later requires towing ($100–$200) + diagnostic at a different shop + repair.
Dorian's Lesson
Download the Mustang Electrical System Starter Kit (Free)
Before you call any shop or order parts, get the information I wish I'd had when my wiring decided to become sentient and malicious.
The Mustang Electrical System Starter Kit (LA Edition) includes:
- ✓ Pre-Purchase Electrical Inspection Checklist — Test these 15 circuits before buying any Mustang
- ✓ Common Failure Points by Year — 1965 isn't the same as 1970; know your model's weak spots
- ✓ Voltage Drop Testing Guide — Find bad grounds and connections yourself (saves $200 in diagnostic fees)
- ✓ Parts Sourcing Worksheet — Which vendors, which harnesses, which kits actually fit your car
- ✓ Shop Interview Questions — What to ask electrical specialists before handing over your keys
- ✓ Budget Planning Calculator — Realistic cost estimates based on your car's needs
- ✓ Wiring Diagram Reference — Simplified schematics for common repairs
Free Download
Learn what's actually wrong before someone charges you $165/hr to figure it out.
[Download the Free Starter Kit]
No upsells. No bait-and-switch. Just the electrical knowledge I paid $3,000 in unnecessary repairs to learn. You're welcome.
Frequently Asked Questions
How much does it cost to rewire a classic Mustang in Los Angeles?
A complete rewire (full chassis harness kit) costs $2,500–$6,100 in LA, including $900–$1,600 for parts and 12–24 hours labor at $100–$165/hr. Partial rewires (dash only) run $1,000–$2,200. Costs vary based on shop specialization, modern upgrades (LED, EFI), and wiring condition.
The real answer: Budget $4,000–$5,000 for a quality full rewire at a classic car specialist. You'll get a modern harness kit (AAW or Painless), upgraded alternator, proper grounds, and 15–20 hours of labor. This eliminates 50 years of electrical uncertainty.
Should I upgrade to a 3G alternator during electrical repair?
Yes. Stock generators (35–55A) are insufficient for modern accessories. A 3G alternator upgrade costs $350–$900 installed and provides 130–200A output, supporting EFI, electric fans, stereo, and LED lights without voltage drop.
The real answer: Every Mustang owner I know who upgraded to 3G says it was worth it. If you're already paying for electrical work, add the alternator upgrade. It prevents future charging issues and costs less when bundled with other repairs.
Can I replace just one wiring harness instead of the whole car?
Yes. Mustangs use separate harnesses (dash, engine, lights). You can replace individual sections if only one has failed. However, if one harness is bad, others often fail within 1–2 years. Full rewire upfront saves money vs. multiple partial jobs.
The real answer: I replaced dash, then engine, then lights over three years. Total cost: $2,550. Full rewire would've been $1,900 once. Do it all at once unless budget absolutely requires staging.
How do I know if my Mustang needs rewiring or just a simple fix?
Test for these red flags: (1) Flickering lights when wires move, (2) melted or brittle insulation, (3) multiple electrical systems failing, (4) fuses blowing repeatedly, (5) burned wire smell. One issue = simple fix. Multiple issues = harness replacement.
The real answer: If you're experiencing electrical problems in 3+ systems (lights, gauges, charging), you need a harness. If it's isolated (just starter, just headlights), a component fix is usually sufficient. A good shop will diagnose this in 1–2 hours ($120–$330).
What's the difference between cheap and expensive wiring harness kits?
Cheap universal kits ($400–$600) require custom fitting, lack labeled wires, and use generic connectors. Quality model-specific kits ($900–$1,600) are plug-and-play with correct connectors, color-coded wires, and modern fuse panels.
The real answer: A cheap kit costs less upfront but adds 8+ labor hours ($960–$1,320) to install. A quality kit (American Autowire, Painless) installs faster and works reliably. Spend the extra $500 on parts to save $1,000 in labor.
Do I need to upgrade to 12V if my Mustang is still 6V?
Most 1964½–1966 Mustangs are already 12V. True 6V Mustangs are rare. If you have one, yes — upgrade to 12V. Modern parts (alternators, bulbs, accessories) are 12V. Conversion requires new alternator, voltage regulator, and bulbs but can reuse existing wiring.
The real answer: 6V to 12V conversion costs $400–$800 (alternator, regulator, bulbs, labor). If you're rewiring anyway, do it then. The performance and parts availability improvements are worth it.
Can LED lights cause electrical problems in classic Mustangs?
LED lights draw less current than incandescent bulbs, which is good. However, turn signals may hyper-flash (fixed with load resistors, $20–$40). LEDs can also expose bad grounds — if ground is weak, LEDs flicker while incandescent bulbs dimmed and you didn't notice.
The real answer: LEDs don't cause problems, they reveal problems. If your electrical system is solid (good grounds, clean connections), LEDs work perfectly. If it's sketchy, they'll expose every weak connection. Fix the wiring first, then upgrade to LEDs.
How long should a wiring harness last in a Mustang?
Original harnesses (1964–1973) are 50+ years old and most are failing. Modern replacement harnesses (AAW, Painless) last 20–30+ years with proper installation and protection from heat/moisture.
The real answer: If your harness is original, replace it. If it's a quality modern harness installed correctly, it'll outlast you. Don't waste time patching 50-year-old wiring.
What should I look for when choosing an electrical shop in LA?
Look for: (1) Classic car specialization (not just general repair), (2) experience with Mustang electrical systems specifically, (3) references from other classic car owners, (4) clear diagnostic process and written estimates, (5) ability to source correct parts (knows AAW vs Painless vs stock).
The real answer: Ask the shop: "How many Mustang rewires have you done?" If they can't answer with a confident number, go elsewhere. Electrical work isn't the place to learn on your car at $165/hr.
Is it worth doing electrical work myself to save money?
If you have experience with automotive electrical systems, a multimeter, and patience, yes. Harness installation is mechanical, not magic. However, proper diagnosis requires tools and knowledge most DIYers lack.
The real answer: I did my own alternator upgrade and saved $200. I attempted dash harness work and gave up after 6 hours of frustration, then paid the shop $1,400 to do it right. Know your limits. Simple swaps (alternator, starter) are DIY-friendly. Full rewiring is not.
The Bottom Line: What Electrical Repair Actually Costs in LA
Here's what you need to know:
Budget Tiers for Common Jobs:
- Alternator/charging repair: $500–$1,000 (do the 3G upgrade while you're there)
- Starter/starting system: $400–$750 (check grounds, cables, and connections)
- Single harness replacement: $1,000–$2,200 (dash is most common, most expensive)
- Full rewire: $3,000–$6,000 (modern kit + labor; eliminates 50 years of problems)
LA Reality Check:
Los Angeles shop rates ($100–$165/hr) are 20–40% higher than national averages. However, quality classic car specialists are worth the premium — they work faster and diagnose accurately.
The Math That Matters:
Electrical problems multiply. One bad harness leads to failed components. Failed components overstress other circuits. Other circuits short and cause fires.
The cheapest approach is fixing everything properly, once. Every partial fix you attempt adds diagnostic time to the next repair.
My Honest Recommendation:
If your Mustang has multiple electrical issues, bite the bullet and do a full rewire with a quality kit. $4,000–$5,000 seems painful until you add up what you'll spend on repeated fixes, tow trucks, and the emotional damage of intermittent failures.
If you have one isolated problem (alternator, starter, single switch), fix that component and move on.
But if you're experiencing electrical weirdness in multiple systems, your 50-year-old wiring is telling you something. Listen to it before it tells you with fire.
About This Guide
I'm Dorian Quispe, a classic Mustang owner who learned electrical repair costs the hard way — by experiencing every failure mode the Lucas Prince of Darkness could've imagined, except Ford beat him to it.
This guide compiles actual LA shop estimates, parts vendor pricing, and lessons from owners who've completed electrical repairs on 1964½–1973 Mustangs. I've spent more time under dashboards than I care to admit, and my relationship with multimeters is complicated.
Cost ranges reflect 2025 LA market conditions. Your specific project will vary based on condition, scope, and how many previous owners thought electrical tape was a viable long-term solution.
These are educational estimates based on actual restoration projects. Always get detailed written estimates from qualified shops before beginning work. And maybe check your ground straps. Seriously. Check them right now.
Last updated: November 2025
Next review: April 2026